Orkney Islands Travel Guide: A Journey Through Scotland's Ancient Northern Isles

Introduction: Why Orkney Islands Should Be Your Next Scotland Destination

The Orkney Islands rise from the North Sea like a living museum, where prehistoric villages stand alongside medieval palaces and dramatic coastal cliffs frame some of Scotland's most important archaeological sites. During my recent journey to these remarkable islands, I discovered why UNESCO declared Orkney's Neolithic sites a World Heritage location, and why every Scottish road trip should include this northern gem.

This comprehensive Orkney travel guide shares everything you need to know about visiting the islands, from practical ferry information to the must-see historical landmarks that make Orkney one of the most unique destinations in the United Kingdom.

Getting to Orkney Islands: Your Journey Begins in the Scottish Highlands

The Route to the Ferry Terminal

My Orkney adventure started in Wick, a historic harbor town on Scotland's northeastern coast. Before catching the ferry, I explored Castle Sinclair Girnigoe, a dramatic clifftop ruin that dates back to the 15th century. This castle offers spectacular views over Sinclair Bay and serves as the perfect prelude to the historical treasures awaiting on Orkney.

Taking the Ferry to Orkney Islands

The ferry crossing from mainland Scotland to Orkney is an experience in itself. NorthLink Ferries and Pentland Ferries operate regular services:

Main Ferry Routes:

• Scrabster to Stromness (90 minutes) - The most popular route with stunning coastal views

• Gill's Bay to St. Margaret's Hope (60 minutes) - Shorter crossing to South Ronaldsay

• John o' Groats to Burwick (40 minutes, seasonal) - Passenger-only summer service

The ferry journey offers your first glimpse of Orkney's dramatic coastline, with seabirds wheeling overhead and, if you're lucky, seals bobbing in the waves. The crossing itself becomes part of the adventure, building anticipation for the islands ahead.

Kirkwall: Orkney's Historic Capital

Exploring Kirkwall's Medieval Heritage

Kirkwall, Orkney's largest town, welcomes visitors with its charming sandstone buildings and winding medieval streets. The town center is compact and walkable, making it easy to explore on foot.

Bishop's Palace and Earl's Palace

Two magnificent ruins dominate Kirkwall's historic quarter:

The Bishop's Palace was originally built in the 12th century and later became the place where King Haakon IV of Norway died in 1263 after the Battle of Largs. The palace's impressive round tower, added in the 16th century, still stands as a testament to Orkney's strategic importance in medieval Scotland and Scandinavia.

The Earl's Palace, built in the early 1600s, is considered one of Scotland's finest examples of Renaissance architecture. Despite being a ruin, the palace's elaborate stonework and spacious halls hint at the opulence once enjoyed by Earl Patrick Stewart, one of Orkney's most notorious rulers.

Walking through these palaces, you can almost hear the echoes of medieval banquets and political intrigue that once filled these halls.

St. Magnus Cathedral

While exploring Kirkwall, don't miss St. Magnus Cathedral, often called the "Light in the North." This stunning red sandstone cathedral has dominated Kirkwall's skyline since 1137 and remains one of Britain's most complete medieval cathedrals.

The Heart of Neolithic Orkney: UNESCO World Heritage Sites

Ring of Brodgar: Scotland's Stone Circle Masterpiece

Standing among the towering stones of the Ring of Brodgar is a genuinely profound experience. This Neolithic henge and stone circle, erected between 2500 and 2000 BCE, originally consisted of 60 stones, though 36 remain standing today.

The ring sits on a narrow strip of land between two lochs, the Loch of Stenness and the Loch of Harray, creating a natural amphitheater that ancient peoples clearly chose with intention. As I walked the circle's circumference, I marveled at how these massive stones were transported and erected without modern machinery, showcasing the sophisticated engineering skills of Neolithic communities.

Visitor Tips for Ring of Brodgar:

• Free to visit and accessible 24/7

• Best visited during golden hour for photography

• Allow 30-45 minutes for exploration

• Combine with nearby Standing Stones of Stenness

Standing Stones of Stenness: Orkney's Oldest Stone Circle

Just a short distance from Brodgar, the Standing Stones of Stenness are even older, dating to approximately 3100 BCE. Only four of the original twelve stones remain, but they're among the tallest in the British Isles, reaching over 19 feet in height.

The sheer scale of these stones is breathtaking. Standing beneath them, you gain perspective on the ambition and spiritual significance this site held for prehistoric Orcadians. The stones are thought to have been part of a ceremonial complex that included Brodgar and other nearby monuments, forming one of the most important ritual landscapes in prehistoric Britain.

Unstan Chambered Cairn: A Window Into Neolithic Burial Practices

The Unstan Chambered Cairn offers something the stone circles cannot—the ability to walk inside a 5,000-year-old tomb. This Neolithic burial chamber sits overlooking the Loch of Stenness, and visitors can duck through the entrance passage into the central chamber.

Inside, you'll find a rectangular chamber divided into five stalls or compartments where the remains of ancient Orcadians were laid to rest. The cairn gets its name from distinctive pottery found here, "Unstan Ware,” which helped archaeologists understand Neolithic ceramic traditions.

Crawling into this ancient space provides a tangible connection to Orkney's first farmers, who built these monuments to honor their dead and perhaps ensure their continued connection to the living community.

Skara Brae: Europe's Best-Preserved Neolithic Village

Walking Through a 5,000-Year-Old Settlement

No Orkney visit is complete without experiencing Skara Brae, arguably Europe's most complete Neolithic village. Hidden beneath the sand dunes for millennia, Skara Brae was dramatically revealed by a storm in 1850, offering an unparalleled glimpse into Stone Age life.

What Makes Skara Brae Extraordinary

Walking the passageways of Skara Brae is like stepping into a time capsule. You can peer into individual homes and see:

• Stone furniture: Built-in beds, dressers, and storage boxes crafted from flagstone

• Hearths: Central fireplaces where families cooked and gathered

• Workshop spaces: Areas where tools and jewelry were made

• Drains: Sophisticated waste disposal systems

The village's preservation is remarkable. Because the settlement was buried so quickly, we can see details rarely preserved at archaeological sites, from the arrangement of domestic spaces to evidence of what people ate and how they decorated their homes.

Visitor Experience at Skara Brae

The site includes an excellent visitor center with replica houses you can enter, providing context before viewing the actual ruins. Interactive displays explain daily life in Neolithic Orkney, making the experience accessible for all ages.

Practical Information:

• Managed by Historic Environment Scotland

• Admission required (includes replica house and museum)

• Plan 1.5-2 hours for full experience

• Café and gift shop on-site

• Exposed location, bring windproof jacket

Coastal Wonders: Brough of Birsay and Stromness

Brough of Birsay: A Tidal Island Adventure

The Brough of Birsay is one of Orkney's most dramatic locations, a tidal island accessible only during low tide via a concrete causeway. This small island off Orkney's northwest coast contains the remains of both a Pictish settlement and a Norse Viking community.

Walking across the causeway as the sea laps at its edges adds an element of adventure to your visit. On the island, you'll find:

• Ruins of a 12th-century Norse church

• Remains of Pictish houses dating to the 7th-8th centuries

• Coastal views across to the Mainland of Orkney

• Seabird colonies on the surrounding cliffs

Important: Check tide times before visiting. You'll need at least 2 hours between tides to safely explore the island and return.

Stromness: Orkney's Charming Harbor Town

Stromness is Orkney's second-largest settlement and its main ferry port. Unlike Kirkwall's medieval character, Stromness has a distinctive maritime feel, with its narrow main street hugging the shoreline and traditional stone houses built gable-end to the sea.

The town has strong connections to Arctic exploration; both the Hudson's Bay Company and numerous polar expeditions used Stromness as their last port before venturing north. The Stromness Museum tells these stories alongside displays on Orkney's natural history and maritime heritage.

Take time to wander the twisting lanes, browse local art galleries, and enjoy a meal at one of the harbor-front restaurants before catching your ferry back to mainland Scotland.

More Ancient Monuments: Broch of Gurness and Wideford Hill Cairn

Broch of Gurness: Iron Age Fortress

The Broch of Gurness represents a different era of Orkney's history—the Iron Age, around 500 BCE to 100 CE. Brochs are unique to Scotland, particularly the northern regions, and these massive stone towers served as fortified homes for important families.

Gurness is one of the best-preserved brochs in Scotland. The central tower still stands several meters high, surrounded by a village of stone houses. Excavations revealed everyday objects—pottery, tools, and even a set of whalebone gaming pieces—bringing Iron Age life into focus.

The site's coastal location offers beautiful views across the Eynhallow Sound, and interpretive signs help visitors understand how this defensive structure functioned.

Wideford Hill Cairn: A Hidden Gem

For those willing to climb, Wideford Hill Cairn rewards visitors with both an impressive Neolithic tomb and panoramic views over Kirkwall and Scapa Flow.

This chambered cairn dates to around 3000 BCE and features a long entrance passage leading to three chambers. Unlike some other cairns, Wideford Hill retains much of its original structure, and you can enter the tomb to experience its intact chambers.

The 15-minute uphill walk deters some visitors, meaning you might have this ancient monument entirely to yourself—a rare treat at Orkney's more popular sites.

Practical Orkney Islands Travel Guide

How Many Days Do You Need in Orkney?

Based on my experience, here's how to plan your Orkney visit:

• 2 days: Perfect for hitting the main highlights: Kirkwall, Skara Brae, Ring of Brodgar, and one or two other sites

• 3 days: Ideal for most visitors, allows time for all major sites plus some smaller attractions and relaxed exploration

• 4-5 days: Great for history enthusiasts who want to visit multiple islands and more obscure archaeological sites

• A week: Necessary for island-hopping and truly immersive exploration

Best Time to Visit Orkney Islands

Summer (June-August):

• Longest daylight hours (near 24-hour daylight in midsummer)

• Warmest temperatures (12-17°C / 54-63°F)

• All attractions open

• Busiest period with highest accommodation costs

• Best weather for photography and outdoor exploration

Spring and Autumn (April-May, September-October):

• Fewer tourists

• Lower prices

• Migratory birds passing through

• More variable weather

• Some attractions on reduced hours

Winter (November-March):

• Shortest days (as little as 6 hours of daylight)

• Stronger winds and storms

• Many attractions closed or limited hours

• Lowest prices and maximum solitude

• Excellent for aurora viewing and winter photography

Getting Around Orkney

Driving: Renting a car offers maximum flexibility and is the best option for seeing multiple sites. Roads are well-maintained but can be narrow with few passing places.

Cycling: Orkney's relatively flat terrain and quiet roads make it excellent for cycling, though the wind can be challenging.

Tours: Several companies offer guided tours covering the main sites, ideal if you prefer not to drive or want expert commentary.

Bus: Local bus services connect Kirkwall with most major attractions, though schedules can be limited.

Where to Stay in Orkney

Kirkwall: Best for amenities, restaurants, and central location. Excellent base for day trips.

Stromness: Charming harbor town with character. Convenient if arriving/departing by ferry.

Mainland villages: Offers peaceful rural settings closer to specific sites.

Other islands: For a quieter, more remote experience, consider staying on islands like Rousay or Westray

BED & BREAKFAST MY SISTER AND I STAYED AT ON ORKNEY ISLAND: Aultnagar Accommodation

LODGING IN SCOTLAND ON THE WAY TO THE ORKNEY ISLAND FERRY: Clashmore Wood

Orkney Weather and What to Pack

Orkney's weather is famously changeable. The islands experience strong winds year-round and can see four seasons in a single day. Essential packing includes:

• Windproof and waterproof jacket (absolute necessity)

• Layers: Temperature can vary significantly throughout the day

• Comfortable walking shoes: Many sites involve uneven terrain

• Sun protection: Even on cloudy days, UV levels can be high

• Binoculars: For wildlife watching and appreciating distant landmarks

Orkney Islands History: From Neolithic Farmers to Viking Earls

Prehistoric Orkney (4000-800 BCE)

Orkney's history stretches back over 8,000 years, but the Neolithic period (4000-2500 BCE) produced the monuments that make Orkney famous. These early farmers built elaborate stone circles, chambered tombs, and settlements that demonstrate surprising sophistication.

The UNESCO-designated "Heart of Neolithic Orkney" includes Skara Brae, Ring of Brodgar, Standing Stones of Stenness, and Maeshowe (a spectacular chambered cairn with Viking runes). Together, these sites represent one of the most important prehistoric landscapes in Europe.

Pictish and Norse Orkney (800-1468 CE)

The Picts inhabited Orkney in the early medieval period, leaving carved stones and settlements like the Brough of Birsay. Norse Vikings arrived in the 8th-9th centuries and made Orkney the center of a powerful earldom that controlled parts of northern Scotland.

Orkney remained Norwegian territory until 1468, when it was pledged to Scotland as part of a royal dowry. This Norse heritage remains visible in place names, dialect, and cultural traditions throughout the islands.

Modern Orkney

Today, Orkney is a thriving community of approximately 22,000 people spread across 20 inhabited islands (out of 70 total islands and skerries). The economy balances traditional agriculture and fishing with renewable energy, tourism, and whisky distillation.

What is Orkney Famous For?

Archaeological Significance

Orkney contains some of the most important prehistoric sites in Europe. The concentration of well-preserved Neolithic monuments is unmatched, providing crucial insights into Stone Age society, religion, and technology.

Viking Heritage

Orkney's Norse period left an indelible mark. St. Magnus Cathedral, the Italian Chapel (built by POWs in WWII), and numerous sagas celebrate this heritage.

Wildlife and Natural Beauty

The islands host important seabird colonies, including puffins, arctic terns, and skuas. Grey seals and otters are commonly spotted along the coast, and the clear northern waters offer excellent diving.

Scapa Flow

This natural harbor between the Orkney islands became Britain's main naval base in both World Wars. Seven German ships from WWI still rest on the harbor floor, creating world-class wreck diving sites.

Renewable Energy

Orkney leads the UK in renewable energy development, generating more than 120% of its electricity needs from wind and tidal power.

Watch My Orkney Islands Video Journey

Experience the beauty and wonder of Orkney through my complete video guide, featuring all the locations mentioned in this guide plus breathtaking coastal scenery and close-up looks at these ancient monuments:

The video includes detailed footage of each location, practical travel tips, and the real experience of exploring these incredible islands.

Frequently Asked Questions About Visiting Orkney Islands

Q: How do you get to Orkney Islands from mainland Scotland? A: The primary access is by ferry from Scrabster (near Thurso) to Stromness, which takes approximately 90 minutes. Alternative routes include Gill's Bay to St. Margaret's Hope and a summer passenger ferry from John o' Groats. Flights are also available from several Scottish cities to Kirkwall Airport.

Q: What is Orkney famous for? A: Orkney is world-renowned for its Neolithic archaeological sites (particularly Skara Brae and the Ring of Brodgar), which are designated UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The islands are also famous for their Viking history, dramatic coastal scenery, abundant wildlife, and the naval history of Scapa Flow.

Q: How many days do you need in Orkney? A: Most visitors find 2-3 days sufficient to see the main highlights, including Kirkwall, Skara Brae, Ring of Brodgar, and several other key sites. History enthusiasts could easily spend 5-7 days exploring more thoroughly and visiting additional islands.

Q: Can you visit Orkney without a car? A: Yes, though a car offers the most flexibility. Bus services connect Kirkwall with major attractions, and several tour companies offer day trips covering the main sites. Cycling is also popular on Orkney's relatively flat roads.

Q: Is Orkney expensive to visit? A: Orkney is moderately priced compared to other Scottish destinations. Ferry costs and accommodation are the main expenses. Many archaeological sites are free to access, though some (like Skara Brae) charge admission. Eating out and activities are reasonably priced.

Q: What's the weather like in Orkney? A: Orkney experiences a cool, maritime climate with strong winds year-round. Summer temperatures average 12-17°C (54-63°F), while winter average 2-5°C (36-41°F). Rain is possible any time of year, but Orkney actually receives less rainfall than much of western Scotland due to its eastern location.

Final Thoughts: Why You Should Visit the Orkney Islands

My journey through the Orkney Islands was unlike any other travel experience. Where else can you walk through a 5,000-year-old village, stand inside Neolithic tombs, explore medieval palaces, and experience some of Scotland's most dramatic coastal scenery, all within a few days?

Orkney offers something increasingly rare in our modern world: a genuine connection to the distant past. These aren't museum pieces or reconstructions; they're real places where real people lived, worked, worshipped, and died thousands of years ago. The preservation of these sites allows us to walk in their footsteps and glimpse their worldview.

Beyond the archaeology, Orkney captivates with its raw natural beauty, welcoming communities, and sense of timelessness. The islands operate on a different pace, where history isn't something you read about—it's something you experience with every step.

Whether you're a history enthusiast, nature lover, photographer, or simply seeking a unique Scottish adventure, the Orkney Islands deserve a place on your travel itinerary. This northern archipelago will surprise you, move you, and quite possibly change how you think about humanity's ancient past.

Plan your Orkney Islands road trip, book that ferry, and prepare for an unforgettable journey through time.

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